I was needing a little table at the end of my sofa. And when I saw the price tag of the West Elm Leather Sling Side Table I decided to create a DIY one myself with a more industrial vibe that would reflect my style a bit more.
We had been using a little garden stool that worked perfectly until I put a drink on it and realized the top wasn’t quite flat.
Since I love perusing magazines and try and read them when I have some downtime. A busy summer means I have back months of magazines to still read and I wanted a place where they would still be visible so I wouldn’t forget to read them.
Plus my garage is busting at the seams with scrap wood that I knew would be free to use for this new DIY project.
I ask my dear friend’s son to help me with this Leather Sling Side Table project since he has been wanting to learn more about woodworking.
Basic Supplies to DIY a Leather Sling Side Table:
- 1″ x 3″ x 6′
- 2″ x 2″ x 8′
- 1″ x 2″ x 6′
- 3/4″ 2′ x 4′ oak or birch plywood (top)
- 1/4″ x 1″ (plywood edge finish)
- chop saw and table saw
- 1/2″ spade bit
- threaded 1/2″ rod
- 4 acorn nuts and 4 washers
- Kreg Jig
- 1 1/4″ pockethole screws
- finishing supplies
- pleather fabric (I got mine from Jo-Ann Fabrics)
- sewing machine and coordinating thread
- optional: corner brace and upholstery tacks
How to Make the DIY Leather Sling Side Table
1. Cut out the pieces
Cut out all your pieces except for the plywood top. I also like to sand all the pieces with 120 grit sandpaper before assembly.
2. Drill the holes
Drill a 1/2″ hole into your 2″ x 2″ pieces. I used a drill press to get a nice straight hole.
But using a hand drill would work too. Just make sure you aren’t accidentally drilling it in at an angle.
3. Screw them together
Screw the side pieces into your legs leaving a 1/4″ gap in the front of the table. Using a 1/4″ scrap piece of wood and setting it under your 1″ x 3″ while you screw it in will give you that inset.
Note: Make sure you pay attention to the direction of the pocket holes making sure they going upward so you can screw in your tabletop later.
4. Cut the Base
Measure the length and width of your base and cut the plywood piece that size.
Flip your table over and use 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach the base to the plywood top.
5. Finish it Up
To finish the plywood edge you can either use iron-on edge banding or rip some 1/4″ x 1″ strips from scrap wood and cut and nail them in place.
Since I wanted it to overhang just a little I opted for this route.
6. Add your stretchers
7. Cut the Rod
Cut a metal threaded rod to fit leaving about 1/2″ beyond the table.
8. Finish Your Table
I filled all the nail holes, sanded my table smooth, wiped it down, and applied Minwax Pre-Stain Conditioner to the entire piece.
Then 5 minutes later I wiped it again and stained it with one coat of Minwax Special Walnut.
After 10 minutes I wiped it down again.
After 8 hours I applied a coat of Minwax Wipe-On Polyurethane. I let it dry and then sanded between coats and added about 2-4 coats total (2 to the base and 4 to the top of the table).
9. Sew the Magazine sling
Cut a piece of fabric 18″ x 48″.
Fold right sides together and use binder clips to hold it in place while you sew.
Sew 1/2″ seam allowance leaving a hole for turning. Clip corners. Turn inside out. Finger press, binder clip, and topstitch.
Then fold under your two 17″ sides under 1″ and sew a casing for the threaded rod.
11. Slide the threaded rods in place
Through the casing on the magazine sling. Secure with a washer and an acorn nut.
To add some industrial details add a 1/2″ metal angle to both corners. I used an upholstery tack pounded in with a rubber mallet to hold the angles in place.
The details totally match the 2×4 farmhouse industrial end table I built on the other side of the couch.
Now I have a place to set a drink and a place to store all my magazines. Dual-purpose is my fave.
To make your own, you can download the plans here below.
For more building plans check out!