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I was in need of a Slim Rolling Laundry Cart and could not find one for the space I had…so I built one myself.

When we moved into our new house the option to do laundry was available either in the mudroom (and 8″ by 6″ room) or downstairs in the basement. Neither was ideal but I knew for sure the mudroom wasn’t an option.

I overhauled that space already and created built-in lockers, which is much more functional for our family. And while I would love to move the laundry room to the top floor that is going to cost thousands.

So at this point, the basement it is. The bringing laundry up and down two floors hasn’t been fun but I have gotten used to it.

The washer and dryer are behind bi-fold doors and all the pipes are showing behind it. Pair that with some awesome green marble and white stick floor tiles and you have yourself the epitome of ugly.

However, right now isn’t the time for TLC to this area. Right now I just need some functionality for laundry day!

So building a slim rolling cart to sit in between the washer and dryer was just what I needed.


How To Build the Slim Rolling Laundry Cart

Since there are no drawers or shelves down here I have been storing everything on top of the dryer. So I am always having to move stuff around in order to clean out the lint trap.

I had plenty of room between the washer and dryer to have a rolling laundry cart between them. The ones I saw online were between 6″ and 8″ wide.

Since I had more available space to me I decided to build my own.

This cart is 11.5″ wide.

Of course, these plans can easily be made with 1 x 10″ (9.5″ in total width) or 1″ x 8″ (7.5″) stock lumber if your area is narrower.

This project is suitable for a beginner who has used a Kreg Jig before. Plus this is also a super versatile cart you could also make for an office, kitchen, art studio, etc., to store various supplies.

In fact, I think I will make a few narrower ones for my studio when I start working on that.

Rogue Engineer Free Plans_Button

Supplies You Need:


Step 1 – Make the Cuts

Make all cuts and then drill 2 pocket holes in the (3) 1″ x 12″ x 25 1/2″ on each end.


Step 2 – Sand the Boards

Sand all the boards with 100 grit sandpaper before assembly. You could also paint it now if you wanted. But I get to anxious to assemble.

Step 3 – Attach Side Pieces

With wood glue and an air nailer attach your side pieces (1 x 4″s) to your 1 x 12 x 25 1/2″ pieces.

Repeat for for the other two shelves.


Step 4 – Air Nail the Shelves

With wood glue air nail the shelves in place. I did the bottom and top shelf and then the middle shelf.


Step 5 – Secure the Shelves

After you have it all nailed together come back with your electric drill and screw in 1 1/4″ Kreg screws in the bottom shelves to secure it.


Step 6 – The Casters

Predrill your holes for the casters. With 3/4″ wood screws attach casters.

These are the casters I used. The two front wheels swivel and the back wheels don’t.

This helps it move in and out with ease while keeping the back stable.


Step 7 – Wood Filler

Patch all the nail holes with wood filler. If there are any gaps (and you plan to paint it) you can caulk it.

Step 8 – Paint and Prime

Sand wood filler. Paint and prime.


Step 9 – Place the Handle

Find a wide handle you like and then drill holes and attach.


I used the Venetian Bronze Martini Pull from DLawless Hardware.


Yay! Now I have more storage in my laundry area making it way more functional and less cluttered.

Plus I have the top of my dryer for folding or sorting socks.


I made some room between the washer and dryer and slid it right in.

The swivel front wheels and non-swivel back wheels really help it slide in and out perfectly.



slim rolling cart


laundry-slim rolling cart

Need more ideas for your laundry room or those dirty clothes?

Free Plans for Rolling Laundry Basket Dresser

laundry basket square

Knock-Off Ballard Designs Definition of Laundry


Read also: Painted Stained Table Tutorial

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  1. I would get a rod and put a big shower curtain behind your washer and dryer. Maybe, dark green to match the green that is in the floor.

  2. Thanks for the suggestion, Debbie. I honestly have so many other rooms to work on upstairs that this basement laundry room is at the bottom of the list. I just have to accept the ugliness. 😉

  3. Every time you have to haul a load of laundry up and down those stairs, remind yourself of how lucky you are that you don’t have to haul your clothes to the nearest laundromat to get them done. I have been doing that for the past few years, as our previous house (a rental) didn’t have the setup for a washer and dryer. Luckily, the house we bought last July has a laundry area in the utility room, and we are finally at a point where we can buy a washer and dryer. I look forward to having a space where I can use a handy cart like this one.

  4. For reals, Kelly! I certainly would rather haul it to my basement than a laundry mat. I can only imagine how thrilled you are to have your own washer and dryer soon!

  5. OMG! After I saw this on your Instagram, I had to RUN to my laundry room and check how many inches I had between my washer and dryer so I could build this baby ASAP…well I don’t think I can make one two inches wide!!! Lol! I thought I had space for one of these…silly me, what was I thinking?! I LOVE the idea though!! As always, thanks for sharing your GREAT ideas…even if I can’t copy them! Hehe!

  6. I love this idea, plan to make it this weekend. Quick question, what is the height of the front and back boards?

  7. Hi Tali, The boards are 36″. If you click on the link in my post to the free plans, you can see the plans Jamison from Rogue Engineer drew up for this cart. They are free and awesome! Let me know if you need anymore help.

  8. If you can figure it out, try to put in a laundry chute! My nearly 100 year old house has one from the main floor to the basement laundry area and I love it. It was put in during a 1960s remodel. The chute in the wall is suprisingly small (8″ x 10″ inside measurement), but that dimension is plenty. In the basement ceiling is a simple box that is the bottom of the chute (where the dirty laundry sits). The box is made out of simple cedar and the bottom of the box is held shut by a simple latch. It might not be possible, but if it is, it will at least make getting laundry down to the basement easy.

  9. Thanks for the suggestion, Ashley. I will definitely keep it in mind if I don’t end up moving our laundry room upstairs.

  10. Hi! I’ve been a long-time-lurker on your site, and honestly think you’re a flippin’ genius. I have been looking to re-do my craft room, and of course, your site pops up for every single search I do! Everything I’ve seen you create makes me more and more excited! In regards to this particular post, I’ve been looking for creative ways to store my glitters, jars of buttons, jars tacks, etc. (and I’ve LOTS of bottles), and thought a slim rolling cart (or two) would be perfect. I could keep one on either side of my craft desk, pull it out when needed, put it away when finished, and they would look super-duper cute filled with pretty bottles while just sitting there, adding to the overall decor. So I went to buy a couple, but wasn’t happy with the selection. I did a quick Google search, and what-do-you-know, YOU have made one! I can’t tell you how pleased I was/am to discover this!

    Now, after that long-winded gushing post, I’ve a quick question: my craft desk has beadboard accents, and I wondered if beadboard could be applied to the fronts of these carts? If so, how would you personally go about doing that? If this turns out to be too complicated an answer for you, just tell me so, and I’ll TOTALLY understand! I’m new to this whole “build-your-own-junk” junk, but I’m a quick learner AND my husband is an engineer, and seems pretty capable when swinging a hammer.

    THANK YOU for all the amazing things you do and make and DOCUMENT!

  11. Hi Laura, Thank you so much for your sweet comment! I am grateful for long time readers/lurkers 😉 like you! With regard to the cart, you could definitely add the beadboard to the fronts.It would probably look better painted than stained though. You can cut the beadboard to fit the front exactly and then nail it in place. Then I would use a small trim or corner piece to cover the seam. Does that make sense?

  12. I can’t believe you responded! It’s like being acknowledged by a celebrity. 🙂 Thank you for your input – It absolutely makes sense! In my mind, I was going to try to cut the beadboard to fit in between the edges (if THAT makes sense), but your method would be so much easier and more economical for brain power. 😉 You are amazing! Thank you TONS!!

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